We
made good progress to the larger town of Gap where we had to make a
circuit of the
town to find a petrol station before driving north until we
reached the pleasant aire at
a former campsite at Pont de Fossé, surrounded by the foothills of
the Écrins Massif. It was so peaceful that we spent two
days there and just strolled around the village and local
footpaths. Refreshed and in fully relaxed mode we returned to Gap and
after a
diversion to a motorhome dealer's which turned out to be rather smaller
than expected,
we cut across country getting tangled up in the traffic at a massive vide
grenier (boot sale) and autojumble event. We joined the main
road west for a while then took a back road to the impressive Col
de Grimone and
Gorges des Gats before reaching Die where the annual transhumance event
was taking place where the sheep are moved up to the mountain pastures
for the summer, and we luckily got the last pitch at the campsite near
the town centre. In the evening the procession of the sheep being
herded through the town centre took place - a rather chaotic affair as
the sheep tended to head off in all directions down side streets.
It was rather warm at 30°C as we continued west to Crest then north to
Romans
s d'Isere and decided to take a signposted Route des Belvederes to the
hills overlooking the Rhône valley. Unfortunately the roads became very
narrow, we didn't find the viewpoints marked on the map
and ended up taking a very steep and narrow lane with sharp hairpins (a
lesson to take heed of 5 Tonne weight limit signs) down to the
riverside and
a layby for lunch. We crossed the Rhône and headed into the
hills along the wooded Gorges de Dour where there was a popular
Velorail, and spent the night by the church (with overnight bells!)
with three other motohomes in the village of Colombier le Vieux. There
were a few decorated bikes in the village as the L'Ardechoise
cycle race had passed through a couple of days previously. We continued
through the Ardeche Vert region to Lamastre and over the hills
to Lalouvesc for a night stop then down through forests to
Annonay. Skirting through busier commuter belt towns we reached Saint
Symphorien where the aire was surrounded by blocks of flats so we
continued to the small village of Bibost and found the aire
situated next to cherry orchards but unfortunately alongside a
five-a-side
football pitch with kids kicking a ball around so we parked a bit
further up the road.
With ten days to reach the ferry at Dieppe we now had to drift north
spending a night at Pruzilly among vineyards, south of Maçon then after
stopping at Tournus for lunch, reached a free aire at Ecuisses by the
Canal du Centre with just a couple of pleasure boats passing.
Bypassing Le Creusot we drove across country to Autun which was busy
with market day so there was nowhere to park. We continued to Chateau-Chinon where
we found the aire was closed for a weekend cycle event. We walked around the
rather tired town centre to find the amazing colourful animated
fountains by Niki de Saint Phalle by the mairie, then drove into the
Morvan regional park to find a free aire at Chaumard next to
the Lac de Pannassiere, where we were joined by a French Rapido motorhome with rather amazing painted mirrors.
Now passing through gentle hilly farmland we bypassed Vezelay and
stopped at the Plus Beau village of Noyers-sur-Serein which we have
visited a couple of times before. This time we called in to the small Museum
of Naive and Popular Art, a rather eclectic collection of paintings and
strange objects. After stopping for lunch near Tanlay with its massive
château we pulled in to the popular aire at Chaource where there is a cheese museum. We then
drove to Troyes and found free roadside parking, being quiet
on a Sunday morning, and walked around the old town centre with its
many half-timbered buildings and magnificent cathedral. We discovered
that Troyes is the outlet and factory shop capital of France and
although some were closed, the large Decathlon warehouse on the
ring-road was open and cars parked on every available bit of
land including the middle of roundabouts. The terrain around here was
mostly flat fields of cereals but a bit further north we
reached the Champagne region and found the canalside aire at Marueil
sur Ay was full so drove a few miles north to the small aire at
Mutigny where we met a couple of British motorhomers (for the first time
in days). Parking was free but the service borne needed €5 coins for 300
litres! of fresh water, and was poorly situated behind the parking
places.
It was still warm as we drove on through the extensive vineyards to
Hautvillers, a smart champagne village with interesting signs above all
the buildings, mostly champagne caves offering degustation. The carparks
had height barriers but we found a small parking area on the main road
north just out of the village.
After finding an Intermarché at Fismes just
before lunchtime closing time we drove west on the main road and turned
off to Monampteuil and the municipal campsite next to a lake
and a large leisure complex, Axoplage. The campsite fee included free
admission but we decided to walk around the lake only to discover that
a complete circuit wasn't possible so had a long walk back alongside a
canal with a few small barges occasionally chugging by.
The next day we continued across rather plain farmland with the
occasional place of interest such as Coucy-le-Château-Auffrique where we just
fitted through the ancient gateway and narrow streets, and on to Conty,
south of Amiens, where there was a large grassy but unshaded aire near
the centre for horses and carriages. As it was still hot at 32°C we just
lazed around for the afternoon before an evening stroll to a small lake.
Velo-rail traffic jam near Colombier le Vieux
Decorated Bike at Colombier le Vieux
L'Ardeche cycle race sand sculpture at Lalouvesc
River Sâone at Tournus
Niki de Saint Phalle animated fountain at Chateau-Chinon
Traditional roundabout . . .
. . . and strange modern sculpture at Troyes
Noyers sur Serein
Tradesmen signs at Hautvillers